Wednesday 24 April 2024

WELCOME to my blog about restoring (mainly) vintage overhead camshaft AJS motorcycles

 

Apologies to anyone that has come to this page expecting to see exclusively vintage AJS motorcycles .....scroll down the page a bit and you will find plenty of them. However, I ran out of AJSs to restore and I'm now working on early cammy Velocettes.

In 2023 I started the restoration of 2 early Velocette KTTs plus another Mk 1 OHC cammy special - a few details about each of these bikes can be found here and here

I spent the first few months of this project sorting out the front and rear hubs to get the wheelbuilding underway, making patterns for a variety of smaller components and working on the girder forks. Castings for smaller components came back from the foundry and have been machined.

More recently, I embarked on a project to make Mk 1 KTT cambox scavenge oil pumps. The entire project is described in these links: part 1, part2 and part 3.

The pumps were finished a few weeks ago and I have since been working on getting rolling chassis for all 3 bikes completed and fitting mudguards. There is quite a lot of work in making the mudguard stays for 3 bikes. One set is finished - details here


and I'm now working on the other 2 bikes.

During the last couple of years I have posted quite a lot of information and to aid navigation the "Labels" section on the right side of this page lists the various projects.

The labels marked "INDEX" give a link to a page that provides a complete list and links to all of the separate sub-projects related to that main project.

Alternatively, scroll down this page and see what's here...

When I started this blog I already owned (and still own) a 500cc AJS R10


that I've been riding for many years and wanted an early 350cc bike. I bought one at a Bonhams auction; this is what I brought home....

....a bit of work was needed to bring it to back to life 

Full details of the restoration can be found here.

During the restoration of the K7 I figured that I could put an early overhead camshaft Velocette cylinder, cylinder head and cambox onto the crankcases of an AJS 350cc engine from 1931, convert it to chain-driven OHC and make an engine that looks like a K7 but has a Velocette top-end. I had a 1928 350cc AJS sidevalve that I had bought on eBay and used that to create the AJcette ....giving credit to both manufacturers.

It looks pretty similar to the K7 and to demonstrate that there really are 2 bikes, here they are both together.


Details of the AJcette project can be found here.

I have quite a lot of early Mk1 OHC Velocette parts and after completing the AJcette I decided to use some of these to make a replica of a one-off bike that AJS built in 1929/1930 for an attempt on the world speed record. The original is a huge V-Twin beast that started out with a naturally-aspirated engine but, having failed to gain the record, was supercharged ...and again failed. The bike ended up in Tasmania for many years and, after being repatriated to the UK and restored, it is now in the National Motorcycle Museum.

This is what the original looked like:

and this is my recreation.

 

 

Like the AJcette, the V-Twin uses Mk 1 OHC Velocette cylinder components. The full story of how this bike was built can be found in the links here.

There is also a 14 minute edited Youtube summary of how these bikes came about here and a longer unedited version here.

In January 2022 I started the restoration of a 1933 AJS Trophy Model

and I have just completed (March 2023) this bike:

 

The Index Page for this project can be found here.

I also reported on a couple of my other projects ....vintage OHV Nortons


 and putting a Marshall supercharger onto my 1934 MG PA

 


I hope you find something of interest.

Fitting Mudguards …and a workshop accident

Fitting mudguards is not a particularly exciting topic but nevertheless an important task that if done carelessly can really spoil the appearance of a bike. In particular, mudguards of the correct shape and diameter should be fitted to give a constant or near constant distance between the mudguard and the tyre (although I recognize that this is not possible on swinging arm bikes where the relationship between the wheel and mudguard changes with the suspension and the rear mudguard needs to allow for wheel removal), and although it may be stating the obvious, the guard needs to be fitted to be exactly on centre with the tyre.

I get my mudguards in raw steel from Renovation Spares and with 21” x 3.00” tyres fitted to the bike, I use 29” x 4” and 30” x 4 ½” D-section guards on the front and rear respectively.


which then need to be cut to length and fitted. Simon, who runs Renovation Spares, has also put in 3/8” indents in both sides of the front mudguards to avoid interference with the girder forks.


Before any mudguard fitting takes place, it is important to check that the rebuilt wheels are on-centre and, for the rear wheel, that the chain alignment is correct. For this, it is necessary to put the gearbox back in the bike temporarily.


A new IWIS ½” x 5/16” chain is fitted. All OK here.

I have used ½” diameter thick wall (1.5mm) tubing for making both front and rear stays on all my recent projects and as far as I am aware this was how the Velocette would have left the factory, as suggested by period pictures of Mk 1 KTTs and the brochure picture below.



However, the period picture of KTT 305 in the Isle of Man with Dave Brewster on board in 1931 (and the factory records indicate that the bike was sent directly from the factory to the IoM) clearly shows flat stays on the front.


…..so, flat stays it is for this one! I have no idea why they did this: differences in weight are minimal so did they think it would improve the aerodynamic drag? Did they temporarily run out of round tube? Who knows...

I have used 20mm x 3mm flat strip for the upper stay and 25mm x 3mm strip for the lower stay. These bend nicely around an appropriately sized piece of round bar

 

and then, with some heat from oxy-acetylene, bent to follow the edges of the mudguard


using an off-cut screwed to a piece of wood.

This really needs 3 hands – one to hold the gas torch and the other two to hold the metal bar. For many years I have adopted the practice of sandwiching the torch between my left arm and my body to give 2 free hands for working the metal. This is not a safe practice and the dangers of this were brought home when making this bracket as I managed to pass the flame over my right thumb. Oxy-acetylene works well for bringing metal up to red heat quickly because, at over 3000 0C, it is the hottest flame available in the workshop …but it can really do some damage to flesh and skin!

After 2 weeks the wound is healing nicely but I shall be more careful in the future to avoid barbecuing parts of my body.

The front mudguard turned out OK.


Stays for the rear mudguard are made using ½” diameter thick wall tubing as I mentioned earlier. Although I have a bender for this diameter of tubing the radius of the bender is too small to give a proper fit around the outside of the mudguard. However, in the many offcuts of round bar that I have there was one that was a good fit for the mudguard and the tubing can be bent by hand without using a tube bender, as shown below. These are 1m lengths of tube and so there is plenty of leverage.


After shaping and cutting to length, the press tool that I had previously made for the 33/7Trophy project

was used to swage the ends. The first pressing is done in the vice


but this can’t provide enough pressure to close the end


and the 20-ton hydraulic press (using typically 6 – 8 tons pressure) is used to finish the job.

After drilling and rounding the ends

the upright stay is finished.

Looking closely at the picture of the bike with Dave Brewster (and also the brochure picture), the 2nd part of the mudguard stay – the part with the handle for hauling it onto the stand, has a short straight section at the top and this needs bends of a smaller radius. These are done using the tube bender


before fitting to the bike and setting up for tack welding to the first upright stay.

The last part of this stay is the cross piece that connects to the mudguard.


Before tack welding this piece, the mudguard is clamped to the upright stay to ensure it is in the correct position when the attaching lugs have been made and fitted.


The lugs are made from 16mm x 3mm flat and are shaped


and bolted to the mudguard before tack welding with TIG.


….being careful not to include the screw head in welding!

After removing the stay to complete the welds, mudguard fitting is finished.

 

The frames were made sufficiently accurately 90 years ago that the mudguards and stays made for one are interchangeable with the others and I will probably use the rear guard and stays shown in the above picture for the cammy special. The picture of the bike with Dave Brewster at the TT shows KTT 305 with a longer rear mudguard and an additional stay and I plan to make the next one to replicate this.

Anyway, 2 more bikes to go….

 

Tuesday 26 March 2024

The Rolling Chassis ….and a Day at Brooklands

Regular readers of my blog may have noticed that there is a one-month gap between my previous posting and this contribution. There is a good reason for this: building/rebuilding/restoring 3 motorcycles simultaneous is turning out to be my self-imposed Labours of Heracles. I decided to do the builds this way because there are efficiencies for repetitive tasks, for example, when setting up machining operations, nevertheless the elapsed time is still pretty close to 3x the time it would take to do one.

As I mentioned in a blog some time ago, one of the first objectives is to get the rolling chassis – frame/forks/wheels/tyres to a state where they can be moved around. My total workshop floor area is 30 m2 and I simply do not have sufficient space to build 3 bikes simultaneously.

The wheels came back from my wheel builder immediately after Christmas – when I was in the middle of making cambox oil pumps and, in the meantime, I had ordered tyres & tubes.

These are Avon Speedmasters for the front and Ensign Universals for the rear – all 3.00” x 21”.

The observant will notice that there are only 5 tyres ….for 3 bikes. I believe that I have exhausted the supply of these particular Ensign tyres here in the UK as I cannot find anymore anywhere online. They are made somewhere in the Far East and so the next incoming batch is probably stuck on a container ship that is now sailing around the Cape of Good Hope to avoid missile attacks if they take the shorter Suez Canal route. Luckily, I have just found a barely used Ensign tyre of the correct size in my garage so I won’t be held up.

After checking the offsets of the newly-built wheels (making sure that they are exactly in the correct position with respect to the frame/forks) and putting on the 5 new tyres (not my favourite job!). I now have 2 ½ rolling chassis.


Apologies for the clutter in the above picture; KTT 305 is on the hydraulic bench (in primer), the cammy special is on the floor beneath KTT 305 with the front wheel in the forks (which have not yet been attached to the bike) and the rear wheel awaiting tyre fitment and KTT 55 is in the foreground on the table.

The crankcases in the above pictures are spares – they belonged to the engines that donated their cylinder barrels/heads/camboxes to the AJcette and V-Twin projects are have been added to give structural strength to the chassis during the dry build.

A couple of final things are needed before I can easily move the bikes around: handlebars and handlebar clamps.

 

Handlebar Clamps

A few weeks ago, I posted a picture of numerous castings that had just come back from the foundry - see here. All of the girder fork links and brake levers shown in the picture on this link had already been machined and fitted (the rockers are for a bronze-head Ariel owned by a buddy of mine) and it was now time to start machining the handlebar clamps, shown below with some originals on the right of the picture.


This turned out to be over one week’s work; for 3 bikes, there are 3 x 4 clamp tops and bottoms in total, which require, for each clamp pair, 8x holes – 4 clearance and 4 threaded (5/16” BSF) for the clamp bolts plus the 2x larger holes (7/8” for the handlebars and ¾” to clamp to the girder fork top yoke). There are also 24x 5/16” high tensile BSF bolts required.

The first step in machining was to face off the top and bottom surfaces.


Pairs of castings were then taken in turn and clamped together


before setting up in the milling machine to drill and tap the centre holes.

The 20mm x 3mm aluminium strip that is sandwiched between the clamps - and will be discarded when machining is finished, is to ensure that the larger diameter holes fit properly to the surfaces of the handlebars and forks when fitted to the bike.

The first 2 holes could then be used to clamp the upper and lower parts together


before drilling and tapping the outer holes.

After a few days the first major part of the machining is completed.


As I mentioned previously, the material is AB2 Ni-Al bronze and machining this, particularly drilling, can produce a lot of heat and I have used solid carbide drills for removing the bulk of the material.

The second stage is to machine the 2 larger holes for the handlebars and forks. To accurately position these, pilot holes of 5/8” are drilled on the milling machine

before setting up each hole in turn in the 4-jaw chuck on the lathe to bore the holes to size. To help in the positioning in the chuck, a 5/8” on-centre milling cutter is inserted into the hole before carefully tightening the chuck jaws


and with final adjustments using a dial gauge.

The holes are bored to size using a small boring bar rather than drilling because this puts considerably less load on the part and avoids the clamp shifting in the chuck.

The clamps for all 3 bikes are now finished


and I can turn my attention to the handlebars.

 

Handlebars

I used to buy excellent quality handlebars suitable for girder fork bikes from Scottparts; these are fitted to, for example, the V-Twin. Unfortunately, the guy that used to supply these retired and I haven’t found anywhere that can provide suitable replacements.

According to the Spares Parts List the part number for the handlebars is FK-61. The Velo Owners Club can provide FK-61/3 (which are for MOV/MAC/GTP Webb Forks) and I ordered 3 of these. They are beautifully made but cannot be used directly because the central straight section is too short to be fitted to the clamps and I therefore decided to chop them in 2 and add a section in the centre. The picture below shows both chopped and unchopped bars and a length of 7/8” diameter stainless steel to be machined for the additional section.


The central section was extended by 3.25” and with 1.125” spigots at both ends that are a good interference fit into the 2 half bars.


After silver soldering the new section in place and polishing

I now have bars that fit correctly to the new clamps.



The bars will be trimmed back to reduce the width at some stage – when the controls are fitted, but for the moment, I can at least move the bikes around easily.

All the handlebars are now made in stainless steel and these will be chemically blacked in due course to avoid them looking too “blingy”.

In the meantime, the next job awaits…


A Day at Brooklands

Last, but by no means least, it’s good to get out of the workshop once in a while and the SunbeamMotorcycle Club recently celebrated it’s 100th Birthday at Brooklands. For those that are not conversant with UK motor racing history, Brooklands was the first banked motor racing circuit in Great Britain and was built in 1907 – see Wikipedia entry here.

I took the AJS V-Twin along to participate in the finishing straight parade. The original bike does have in-period Brooklands history - see pictures below taken in 1930



Acknowledgements to Steven Mills from whose book “AJS of Wolverhampton” these pictures were taken and to Geoffery St. John for the originals.

but I did not attempt to try and recreate these atmospheric pictures with my replica. The day was thoroughly enjoyable and provided the opportunity to meet up with a few hundred like-minded people that like old, noisy, smoky motorbikes.

One of the most interesting bikes there was brought along by Ian Hatton. Ian is the proprietor of Verralls, the vintage, veteran and classic motorcycle dealer in Handcross, Mid Sussex. I have known Ian for many years and I have both bought and sold bikes through his establishment - he is also more knowledgeable about these ancient pieces of machinery than anyone else that I know.

One bike that he acquired some years ago has an engine with a rotary valve in the cylinder head to replace the usual inlet and exhaust poppet valves. In the early days of 4-stroke reciprocating engines and before poppet valves became the established engineering solution for getting fuel and air into the cylinder and the exhaust gasses out, alternatives, many of which involved some kind of rotary valve, were proposed. A couple of the more well-known ones (in the UK) are the Aspin and Cross rotary valves but there are many more; eventually all of these fell by the wayside and I do not know any that have ended up in production engines and stood the test of time. Just to be clear, I am not talking about rotary engines, such as the Wankel, or disc valves in 2-strokes.

Anyway, back to Brooklands. Ian brought along a bike that has a running rotary valve engine. The valve rotates about an axis aligned with the centreline of the cylinder and is driven by a skew gear which, in turn, is chain driven. The engine is built on De Dion crankcases and has a magnificent petrol tank that is also a radiator for the water-cooled cylinder head! A brief video that I took of the bike running and out on the track is below.


A great day. Thank You to Julie Diplock at the Sunbeam MCC for organizing the event and to Brooklands.