Some years ago I purchased two small furnaces on ebay.
They are quite old but were really cheap and have proved very reliable. The furnace that I use for hardening, shown below, has a
small working section because it needs to be heated to around 800 0C
but it is quite large enough for the gears, shafts, bearings etc that you find
on motorbikes.
The other furnace has a much larger working section
because it only needs to be heated to around 250 0C maximum. It is
also used for heating castings for removing and fitting bearings and for
preheating prior to welding. My missus would be really unhappy if I put large
and, when heated, smelly chunks of metal into her kitchen oven!
The basic heat treatment process is:
A few practical points:
Before heating to high
temperature, stainless steel lock wire is used to make a little “package” so
that the gear can be easily taken out of the furnace when hot. An anti-scaling compound (see picture below) is also used to avoid a black oxide scale that would otherwise form after
high temperature heating. Finally, the larger furnace is preheated to the
correct temperature so that the gear can be put into an already warm environment for
tempering immediately after quenching.
After heat treatment, the anti-scale compound can be easily
removed because it forms a baked hard shell that peels off to leave a clean
surface. The picture below shows the gear and the pinion after heat treatment but before cleaning up.
Keyways need to be cut in the gear (and also in the
sprockets). I leave this to after heat treatment because we have a local
engineer with 50+ years of experience in spark eroding and it makes no
difference whether the material is in the annealed state or has been hardened.
In the absence of a spark eroder, the keyway would need to be broached before
heat treatment.
Finally,
a tumbler using ceramic chips is useful both at the end of machining and as a
final step to smooth any rough edges and to give the gears a uniform and clean appearance.
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